A tale of two houses
Saturday I drove a little over an hour to visit two towns in
Alabama that I had not been to before. I
started in Tuscumbia, the home of Helen Keller.
Tuscumbia is the perfect embodiment of a sleepy southern town, with a
quiet downtown and charming old homes and church buildings. It took a few minutes to find Ivy Greene, the
birthplace of Keller. I parked in front
of a small white house. It had been built in 1820, and was 199 years old. We toured the home with a knowledgeable
guide.
I had both read The
Story of my Life and seen the movie The Miracle Worker, so seeing the actual
room where the famous “food fight” or Manners lesson took place was
interesting. Helen had been allowed to
do whatever she wanted for her entire 7 years of life, so when a teacher was
hired to help her she didn’t want instruction.
She locked the teacher in her bedroom and hid the key on the day teacher
was unpacking. The “food fight” came
about because Annie Sullivan, the teacher, would not allow Helen to walk around
the table eating off of everyone else’s plates.
Annie felt like Helen could learn manners, and Helen did not want
this. Plates were broken, glasses
spilled and food tossed all around the room before Helen ate with a fork and
folded her napkin.
Annie knew that it would be almost impossible to teach Helen
with the family interfering and trying to help so she and Helen moved out of
the main house and into a side cottage they turned into a school room. From both the books and the movie I always
thought the cottage was far from the home, but the two buildings were side by
side. The water pump where Helen first
learned that w-a-t-e-r was that cold wet stuff pouring over her hand was right
between the cottage and the home. They
were not really isolated at all, just separated.
This picture was taken from the porch of the cottage where Helen and Teacher moved
I loved the beauty of the homes, and of the gardens and I
thought about how Helen never really had the opportunity to see and enjoy what
I could see. But the flowers were fragrant, and soft to the touch. It was said that Helen loved a good
garden. She was an excellent and
motivated student and she graduated from Radcliff College, traveled as an
ambassador for the hearing and seeing impaired and wrote many books. She met
every president from Grover Cleveland to Lyndon Johnson. I wonder if she would’ve had the same
opportunities if she had not been blind and deaf. She was highly intelligent but lived in a
difficult time for women to achieve as much as she did. I have always found her life interesting and
inspiring.
The water pump where Helen first learned that things have words and that finger spelling was the key to knowing those words.
The next stop was downtown Florence Al. I found an old but very popular diner for
lunch. I asked the waitress what they
were famous for, and ended up with an excellent home made pimiento cheese
sandwich. I ordered a coke and it was
served in a chilled glass bottle.
Next I stopped at the Rosenbaum Home. When we lived in West Virginia one of my
travel regrets was not touring the Frank Lloyd Wright home in Pittsburg,
Falling Water. This is the iconic home
built over a waterfall. It turns out
there is one Wright home in Alabama and it is open for tours. The house is a simple design of his Usonian
style. Our guide explained that Usonian
simply meant in the style of the United States of North America. I had never heard of that before. We were not allowed to take photos inside the
home, and we were part of a very large group that found ourselves crammed into
small rooms as we toured. We entered the
home in a dark small hallway, turned a corner and walked into a large living
room with floor to ceiling window doors all along the backside of the
house. The view of the large yard and
trees made the room feel much larger and airy.
When the home was built 80 years ago the view included the Tennessee
River. Now the trees are too tall. The room had built in bookshelves that ran
the entire length of the room. The tour
was fun and the house was one I would love to live in, but what really
interested me was told to us as an after thought at the end of the tour. The
Rosenbaums were active in the Civil Right’s movement, and they hosted many of
the freedom riders that traveled down to Alabama to register voters. The house was a safe place for people that
were fighting for freedoms and rights for the African Americans in the area.
Click here to learn more about the Frank Lloyd Wright home in Alabama.
I hope to learn more about the history of Alabama, and to
explore more places here.